Km. 0
You set off from the Mata Bejid Visitor Centre, a good place to leave your car and get your bearings in the park. The route crosses the recreational area via the central path and, at the far end, you pass through the gate leading north-east. You’ll see replicas of shepherds’ huts, built by volunteers, which serve as a reminder of the area’s history as livestock grazing land. The signposted path turns left and winds its way through holm oaks and young pine trees; the track, with sections of small stones, allows you to make good progress on a very gentle climb that warms up your legs without being too demanding.
Km. 0,8
After a few minutes, the Cortijo del Peralejo comes into view; it is still in use, and you can sometimes hear the livestock and the bustle of the sheepfolds. The path runs halfway up the hillside and the gradient remains gentle; if you pause for a moment, you can make out the hill we will descend later and, above, the jagged outline of the Mata Bejid limestone formations. It is a good spot to adjust your pace and follow the trail through the clearings of aromatic scrub so characteristic of Mediterranean vegetation.
Km. 1,2
We continue westwards, always along the hillside, with the limestone cliffs that flank the valley on our right. A recently installed via ferrata has been fitted out along these cliffs, featuring bridges and aerial crossings that catch the eye when you look up. The path narrows at times and the surface alternates between earth and rocky outcrops; it is advisable to place your feet carefully on the bends and follow the signposts. The route maintains its steady ascent, whilst the forest opens up views of the shady slopes of Mata Bejid and foreshadows the forthcoming changes in direction along the route.
Km. 1,7
The path winds its way westwards halfway up the hillside, over a surface of earth and bare rock; an old bridle path with low stone walls, clearly marked amongst holm oaks and scrub. At the lower edge of the route, almost hidden by the vegetation, lies the Cueva de la Solana, a small cave connected to the very rock face where the via ferrata is installed. It is a brief stop to take a leisurely look: a small karstic shelter carved into Jurassic limestone. The entrance, facing the sunny side (south–south-west), breathes fresh air, and all around one can see lapiaz and dissolution fissures, typical of the Mágina karst. There is no evidence of authentic rock art: what can be seen on its walls are modern paintings (imitations), documented in local inventories. We continue our walk, maintaining the same elevation, with a gentle slope and a few short zigzags that help us gain height effortlessly.
Km. 3,4
The footpath winds its way through clearings and, little by little, ceases to resemble a proper path. At kilometre 3.4, it joins a forest track. Turn left (north) towards Mata Bejid Castle. The going becomes easier and more even. The track winds its way through patches of pine, holm oak and gall-oak, with intermittent views of the upper limestone karst formations. A good stretch for finding your rhythm and letting the forest set the pace.
Km. 3,8
A short, steep slope leads to the stone threshing floor below Mata Bejid Castle, the remains of the medieval fortification that guarded the pass between the Guadalbullón countryside and the high, shady slopes of Mágina. Here, one can still make out the circular cobblestone pavement and the dry-stone walls that enclosed the corral. All around, the scattered farmsteads—small farmhouses, huts, and old sheepfolds—speak of a landscape worked daily: grazing, firewood, small vegetable gardens along the springs and paths we follow on foot today. The panoramic view makes the climb worthwhile. You walk through a type of pasture rarely found in high mountains. The dehesa—an open landscape of holm oaks and gall oaks interspersed with mountain pasture and Mediterranean shrubbery—is found primarily at low and medium elevations, where the holm oak dominates and the acorn harvest yields the best results; hence the rarity of finding a well-developed dehesa at around 1,100 m (Mata Bejid), a colder altitude with shallower soils. In spring, thyme, sage, and lavender appear; in autumn, the cornicabra olive tree sets the shaded areas ablaze with reddish hues. At higher elevations, booted eagles or short-toed eagles may be spotted. To the east, the limestone formations feature lapiaz and sheer walls that explain the karstic nature of the surroundings. It is a perfect vantage point to take in the landscape—border, farmland, and mountains—and get some fresh air. It is best not to enter the remains of the fortification: there are unstable areas; the threshing floor offers the best panoramic view in complete safety. From here, you resume the gently sloping trail, leaving the castle on your right and the mosaic of pastureland as a backdrop.
Km. 6,9
The track gradually gains height, with sections of track and a few stony stretches where it is advisable to slow down. To the left lie the ruins of the Cortijo de Los Prados, a former farming and livestock settlement linked to the use of pastures and the mountain passes; a few metres higher up flows the Fuente de Los Prados, a spring that feeds a trough still used by livestock. The flow is seasonal: it runs freely after rain and snow, and tends to diminish in summer. The view opens out towards the peaks that will guide the day’s journey: to the right rises the Peña de Jaén (2,147 m) and, ahead to the left, the Almadén (2,036 m); between them lies the Puerto de la Mata (1,669 m), the pass through which we will cross the watershed. This section follows the GR-7; the corresponding signposting confirms the route as the track winds its way upwards gradually, without any steep gradients.
Km. 9,6
The forest track splits in two. We take the left-hand fork towards Puerto de la Mata (our destination on the southern slope). The right-hand fork leads down towards Caño del Aguadero and the Cuadros Recreation Area (Bedmar), a tempting alternative if you’re looking for a detour, but it’s off the main route. The going remains steady, with the gradient easing off at times; the forest closes in and the air grows cooler, a sign that the pass is near.
11,2
We reach Puerto de la Mata, the turning point of the route. The ascent up the south face ends and the descent down the north face begins, heading towards Fuenmayor. Here the landscape changes markedly: the slope becomes cooler and more wooded, the pine forest thickens in the shady areas and the undergrowth becomes more prominent; at the bottom of the valley, the Fuenmayor stream winds its way between poplars and ash trees, heralding the descent towards Torres. To the left stands Almadén (2,036 m), unmistakable thanks to the antennas on its summit. The path invites you to pick up the pace, but loose stones on the bends mean it is best to maintain a controlled pace; we follow the GR-7 markings, which remain clearly visible during this change of slope.
Km. 11,8
The path continues gently downhill through a pine forest over a surface with a few loose stones. On the left, you’ll come across a small shepherds’ hut and the Hoya Lino spring and watering hole, a hillside spring that feeds a trough by the side of the path: the perfect spot to catch your breath. The flow is seasonal: it is plentiful after rain and snow and decreases in summer. The shade of the pine forest makes for a welcome stop before continuing down the valley.
Km. 13,4
The track forks. We take the left-hand fork, staying on the main path which continues to follow the GR-7. The woodland alternates between dense, shady areas and grassy clearings; the terrain is undulating, generally losing elevation without any steep gradients.
Km. 14,7
Here we leave the GR-7 and continue left toward Fuenmayor. The trail, still a forest road, begins a more gradual descent; as we round the curves, we start to feel the cool breeze and hear the murmur of water at the bottom of the valley. Watch out for some sections with loose gravel and rocks, which prompt us to slow down.
Km. 15,2
The trail returns to the Zurreón area; to the left, the waterfall peeks out from among the vegetation. The waterfall is intermittent: although the spring flows year-round, its flow is very low; the waterfall only appears after heavy rains, and in cold winters, it can freeze over. It’s a brief stop for quiet enjoyment along the path, before resuming the steady descent toward Fuenmayor, which we can already sense nearby at the bottom of the valley.
Km. 16,7
The trail leads us to Fuenmayor, where the recreational area invites us to reflect on the day and enjoy a well-deserved rest. Amid the gentle murmur and coolness of the spring, we bring our hike to a close.