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Culture

Úbeda has a beautiful monumental and cultural heritage that makes it an essential destination for those interested in Renaissance architecture.

Of its heritage, we should highlight the excellent degree of conservation of many of its buildings, which still retain details from the period, such as the nailed wooden doors, the iron knockers, the lanterns and the grilles. 

It contains so many monuments, churches, palaces and stately homes that it would be difficult to list them all here. The most notable monuments in Úbeda include the following:

Historic centre:

• Plaza Vázquez de Molina
• Sacred Funerary Chapel of El Salvador del Mundo
• Basilica of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares.
• Palace of Deán Ortega. Current Town Hall and houses the Andrés de Vandelvira Interpretation Centre.
• Hospital de los Honrados Viejos de El Salvador (Hospital of the Honrados Viejos de El Salvador).
• Palace of the Marquis of Mancera
• Vela de los Cobos Palace
• Church of San Pedro
• Church of San Pablo. Located in the Plaza 1º de Mayo.

Quarter of the Alcázar, San Lorenzo and Santo Domingo:

• House of Las Torres
• Palace of the Medinilla family
• Church of San Lorenzo
• Church of Santo Domingo

Quarter of San Isidoro:

• Hospital de Santiago
• Palace of the Marquis de la Rambla
• Church of San Isidoro
• Church and Convent of La Santísima Trinidad

Districts of San Pablo and San Nicolás:

• Church of San Nicolás de Bari
• Convent of the Immaculate Conception. It houses a museum.
• Casa de la Tercia - Olive Grove and Oil Interpretation Centre.

Neighbourhoods of San Millán and Santo Tomás:

• Calle Valencia. Numerous craft workshops to visit.
• Church of San Millán
• Francisco de los Cobos Palace

San Juan de la Cruz Route:

• Convent of San Miguel and Oratory of San Juan de la Cruz.

In addition to these interesting attractions, we suggest a visit to the walls to contemplate the extraordinary panoramic views that can be obtained from them. 

Nature

It is the main centre of the region known as La Loma. Úbeda is located on some hills at an altitude of 750 m. and is surrounded by the valleys of the Guadalquivir and Guadalimar rivers.

Nearby, surrounding it, are the Natural Parks of Despeñaperros, Sierra Mágina and Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas.

The landscape is very characteristic because it is made up of a "sea of olive trees", as the poet Antonio Machado wrote.

Fiestas y Eventos

The city of Úbeda has a mosaic of cultural activities, festivals, fairs, pilgrimages... All of these events are deeply rooted in the town and have a well-established organisation, which means that visitors from all over Spain come to take part in them.

Special mention should be made of the celebration of Holy Week, one of the most popular festivals in Andalusia, which has been declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest.

On 1 May the Romería de la Virgen de Guadalupe, patron saint of Úbeda and known as "la Romería Grande", is held. On this day the Virgin is taken from her sanctuary to the village of Santa Eulalia.

Also typical are the bonfires of San Antón, "las lumbres". On 16 January, bonfires are built in the different neighbourhoods, where sardines are roasted or the embers are jumped over.

The feast of San Isidro Labrador, on 15 May, the patron saint of farmers, is particularly important, and enjoys great devotion among olive workers.

In conjunction with the neighbouring city of Baeza, the Ancient Music Festival is organised. And in the last months of the year the Puppet and Storytelling Festivals are held.

And we must not forget to mention the San Miguel Fair, on 29 September, the town's patron saint's day. And during the days of this fair, the Autumn Theatre Festival takes place, as well as high quality musical activities and children's activities for all ages.

Other relevant events include the Flamenco and Mestizo Festival "Ciudad de Úbeda" and the Muestra de Teatro de Otoño de Úbeda.  

Gastronomy

The cuisine of Úbeda is basically Mediterranean, with influences from La Mancha and Levante and with Andalusian roots.

On the table, pulses, game meats and products derived from the "matanza del cerdo" (pig slaughter), and, of course, virgin olive oil and table olives. Among the most outstanding dishes are:

• Las migas (reminiscent of the shepherds during transhumance)..

• El Ochío, an olive oil cake.

• Pickled partridge. 

• Bean stew with aubergines. 

The bars and canteens are the traditional meeting point for the locals. If you visit the city in September you can attend the Fiesta de la Tapa.

Nor should we forget the "Jornadas gastronómicas del Renacimiento" (Renaissance Gastronomic Days). These take place from January to March in the most emblematic restaurants, where both lunch and dinner are accompanied by shows.

History

The latest archaeological research confirms that the first settlements in Úbeda date back to the Copper and Bronze Ages (3rd and 2nd millennium BC), being the "oldest city in Europe" scientifically documented.

The Greeks and later the Carthaginians, who were defeated by the Romans, arrived in search of trading goods. It was under the Roman Empire, after the battle of Llipa in 206 BC, that the ancient city was Romanised and became known as Bétula.

The city became important with the arrival of the Arabs, in particular with Abderramán II in the 9th century, who re-founded it under the name of Ubbada or Ubbadat Al-Arab (Úbeda "of the Arabs"). As a Muslim city, it was surrounded by walls and became one of the most important cities of Al-Andalus, mainly due to its craftsmanship and trade.

In the 11th century it was conquered by the Almoravids. And the definitive Christian conquest was carried out in 1234 by King Fernando III.

A series of factors, such as the geographical situation, its extensive and rich jurisdiction, as well as the presence of an increasingly powerful nobility, laid the foundations for the splendour that Úbeda reached in the 16th century.

The economic development of the city, based on agriculture and horse breeding, the ploughing up of the forests, which led to an increase in arable land, and the existence of its own mesta, were the foundations of the city's greatest splendour, which led to a demographic increase until it reached a population of 18,000 inhabitants. 

In addition to the nobility of Úbeda and the knightly orders, there was also a group of prosperous local residents (doctors, tailors, notaries, apothecaries...) who would give rise to an incipient bourgeoisie.

We should highlight the role of Francisco de los Cobos, secretary to Charles I, who, with his interest in art and under the advice of the architect Andrés de Vandelvira, filled the city with palaces. The humanist currents of the Renaissance took root in Úbeda. It was Juan Vázquez de Molina, Secretary to Charles I and Philip II, who continued the planning begun by his predecessor.

Decline:

The 17th and 18th centuries are of decline for the city, as Spain is immersed in a general crisis. Poor harvests, unfair taxation to cover the cost of wars, corruption, the power of the clergy and the expulsion of the Moors all contributed to the loss of the splendour that characterised the city.

Later, in 1820 and 1836, the ecclesiastical confiscations, the Carlist wars, the Civil War and the post-war period would arrive.

Recovery:It will be in the 60s and 70s of the last century, thanks to the developmentalist pull, when slowly what was the "Florence of Upper Andalusia" will reach its current place and become a provincial reference, head of the region of La Loma and a centre of industry and services of increasing importance every day.

Other Information

Well-known people born in Úbeda:

• Antonio Muñoz Molina,  writer and member of the Royal Academy of Language.
• Joaquín Sabina, singer-songwriter.

Saint John of the Cross died in Úbeda on 14 December 1591.

The popular saying of leaving or "walking around the hills of Úbeda" has its origins in the conquest of the city of Úbeda from the Almohads in 1233. It seems that one of the most important captains of King Ferdinand III "the Saint", disappeared moments before entering the battle, and that he appeared after the city had been conquered. Asked where he had been, he replied that he had got lost in the hills of Úbeda.