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Culture

The civilisations that have inhabited the city and its surroundings over the centuries have left their mark on the architecture of Jaén, with a great wealth of monuments, both in religious and civil buildings. The city's historical-artistic heritage includes various styles: Gothic, Mudejar, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassical...

Among the monuments we would highlight the following:

• The Cathedral, dedicated to Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, a masterpiece of one of the best Renaissance architects, Andrés de Vandelvira and a source of inspiration for the construction of many cathedrals in Latin America, is considered one of the most notable works of the Renaissance in Andalusia, which is why a few years ago the process was initiated to obtain its declaration as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The city's first cathedral was built on the foundations of the Aljama mosque after the conquest of the city by Fernando III, the Saint in 1246. Some time later, in the 14th century, Bishop Nicolás de Biedma brought to the city the relic of the Santa Faz or Santo Rostro, one of the three cloths that, according to tradition, Veronica used to wipe the sweat and blood of Jesus during his ascent to Calvary. The existence of this relic in the first Christian cathedral meant that it became an important pilgrimage shrine and soon made it necessary to extend it, now in the Gothic style. Elements of this style still remain in the chancel of the present cathedral. Due to various construction problems in the 14th century, the architect Andrés de Vandelvira was commissioned to build a new cathedral with Renaissance traces, and although the works lasted for three centuries, the master's mark was maintained, resulting in the most architecturally balanced, harmonious and proportionate cathedral of the Andalusian cathedrals and the one with the most solemn and majestic interior.

• The Basilica of San Ildefonso is, after the cathedral, the largest temple in the city. The first records of the primitive building date back to 1248, when it was created as a chapel to serve the cathedral. Two centuries later, in 1430, it became the scene of the famous miraculous event of the descent of the Virgin Mary to the city of Jaén. After this event, it became a sanctuary to worship the image of the Virgin that was inside it, under the name of Capilla (Chapel). In the 16th century, the Virgen de la Capilla was named patron saint of Jaén. Finally, in 2010 Pope Benedict XVI declared it a Minor Basilica. The temple is made up of three façades: the oldest, in Gothic style, is the one at the back of the church. The side doorway, in Renaissance style, has a relief with the imposition of the chasuble on Saint Ildefonso. The last to be built was the main doorway in neoclassical style, which is crowned with the image of the saint after whom the building is named.

• Castle of Santa Catalina.  On the summit of the Cerro de Santa Catalina there was an ancient citadel of Caliphate origin as early as the 9th century. Centuries later, after the conquest of the city by Ferdinand III in 1246, the Christian castle was built, which has survived to the present day. In the 19th century, due to the invasion of Napoleon's troops, the castle underwent a series of reforms in order to reinforce the defensive structures. In the 1960s, the building that houses the Parador Nacional was built very close to the castle. From the top, there are spectacular views of the city and the surrounding area, particularly from the La Cruz viewpoint. The fortress houses the interpretation centre where you can learn about the history of the castle.

• The Arab Baths. They are the largest and best preserved in Spain. They were built in the 11th century, at the time of Abderramán II. They are located on the ground floor of the palace of Villardompardo, right in the historic centre of the city. They cover an area of 450 square metres. Judging by the remains of Almohad decoration in some of the rooms, they must have been restored towards the end of the 12th century. Between the 14th and 15th centuries, when its function as a bath disappeared, its rooms were used as tanneries and later, at the end of the 16th century, Don Fernando de Torres y Portugal, Count of Villardompardo and Viceroy of Peru, built his palace over the baths. At the beginning of the 20th century, together with several adjacent houses, they were used as part of a Women's Hospice. In 1913 a small part of the baths was discovered and a few years later they were declared a National Monument. Today, after the restoration carried out and which merited the Europa Nostra Prize, it shares the stage with the "Arab Baths" Cultural Centre, which houses the Museum of Popular Art and Customs and the International Museum of Naïf Art.

• Camarín de Jesús. The Camarín and the Conventual Church of San José are the only remaining vestiges of the old Convent of San José of the Discalced Carmelite Fathers, founded in the 16th century. The recently restored church, which has a typical Carmelite façade with a niche, houses the chapel and chapel of Jesus, designed in the 17th century to house the famous Renaissance carving of Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno (El Abuelo), belonging to the Brotherhood founded in the same convent of San José in 1588 and which is carried in procession in the early hours of Good Friday morning before thousands of faithful and devotees. On its façade there is a beautiful terracotta sculpture of St. Joseph by the prestigious ceramist Paco Tito.

• Church of La Magdalena. Primitive aljama mosque of the city in the Islamic period, converted into a parish church after the Christian conquest. Its main façade and interior are Gothic in style. The old Arabic minaret can still be seen on one of its towers. It preserves pieces of artistic interest, such as the Calvary by Jacobo Florentino, "El Indaco"; a panel of Our Lady of the Pilar, attributed to Pedro Machuca; the 16th century Christ of Clemency, the work of Salvador de Cuellar and the 18th century image of the Magdalena, by Mateo de Medina. The courtyard of the old mosque with its rectangular pond used for ablutions, had other public uses in Christian times and in the 20th century was decorated with a small garden and goldfish. 

• Church of San Bartolomé. This is one of the oldest churches still preserved in the province of Jaén. This religious monument dates back to medieval times and has a Baroque style exterior and a Mudejar style interior. Inside, there is an outstanding green glazed ceramic baptismal font with 15th-century Gothic inscriptions. 

• Provincial Palace of the Diputación. Palace built in the mid-19th century by the architect Jorge Porrua. It originally housed the Convent of San Francisco, which was ordered to be built by King Ferdinand III the Saint in the 13th century. A century later, Peter the Cruel donated it to the Franciscan friars. With the disentailment, it passed into public hands and finally became the seat of the provincial council. Today you can visit the central courtyard and the lower galleries.

• Oppidum of Puente Tablas. The fortified town of Puente Tablas is located 4 kilometres from Jaén. Throughout its thirty years of research, the site has demonstrated its great heritage value through the extensive human occupation of the site, from the Bronze Age to the Islamic period, but the most important phase is the Iberian period, mainly the 4th century BC. In this Iberian fortified city you can learn how the Iberians lived in the upper Guadalquivir, contemplate one of the most powerful fortifications with more than 300 meters preserved and a power of more than 5 meters high. Visitors can enter the city by walking where the ancient inhabitants of the oppidum once walked and cross the famous Puerta del Sol.

Nature

Half of the municipal territory of Jaén is immersed in the mountain system of the Sierras Béticas. A detail that we can appreciate perfectly when we contemplate the surroundings of the city from the castle in the Santa Catalina mountain, an excellent viewpoint of the region.

To the south lie the mountains and rocky peaks, which form the periurban parks of Santa Catalina and Monte la Sierra. This is an area where you will find a multitude of mountain routes and trails in the vicinity of the town centre.

To the north we see the countryside, gently sloping hills dotted with centuries-old olive trees, which as we move away give way to the pines, cornicabras and chaparros that herald the sierra.

Activities such as hiking, cycling or climbing are within easy reach for the inhabitants of Jaén and tourists alike.

Festivals and Events

Holy Week in Jaén is a religious, socio-cultural and tourist phenomenon of great importance for the city. Its brotherhoods and confraternities represent a legacy that dates back to the 16th century.
The beauty and quality of the sculptural imagery is outstanding, being one of the most highly valued in Andalusia.

The International Olive Oil and Related Industries Fair (Expoliva) is held every two years and is one of the most important fairs in the sector in the world.

San Lucas Fair. It originated in the 14th century as a privilege granted to the city by King Henry IV of Castile.

It is held during the week of 18th October and a multitude of events take place: bullfights, concerts and the installation of stalls in the fairgrounds of "La Vestida".

Music is deeply rooted in the city, proof of which is that the city hosts the Autumn Festival and the prestigious Jaén International Piano Competition, as well as the Jaén International Jazz Festival: "Jazz entre Olivos". 

Other events and festivals:

• Las lumbres de San Antón, on 17 January. As well as singing and dancing, "melenchones" are sung. This fiesta has been declared of National Tourist Interest. 
• The Crosses of May. 
• Corpus Christi. 
• Festivity in honour of the Virgen de la Capilla, co-patron saint of the city. 
• The day of Santa Catalina, the other co-patron saint of Jaén, and on this day the conquest of the city by Ferdinand III of Castile is commemorated. 

Gastronomy

Jaén's gastronomy is varied and is based on the Mediterranean diet, in which extra virgin olive oil gives a special aroma and taste to the dishes.

Among the most outstanding dishes are:

• Pipirrana, which is made with ripe tomato chopped into small pieces, to which is added a juice made from olive oil, green pepper, egg, garlic and salt. Grated egg can be added on top and, optionally, tuna.
• Homemade partridge pâté.
• Migas with vegetables.
• Scrambled egg with broad beans and Iberian ham.
• Broad beans, collejas or spinach with pine nuts, which are a good example of Jaén's vegetable garden.
• Roast kid, chicken, kid or lamb.
• Trout from the rivers of Jaén.

Among the confectionery, we should mention: sweet porridge, fried milk and not forgetting the convent confectionery: that of the Bernardas, Santa Clara or the Carmelites.
If you want to try something different in the Barrio de San Ildefonso you will find the two Michelin Stars: "Bagá" and "Dama Juana".

History

Human presence in the present-day town dates back to the Chalcolithic period, also known as the Copper Age, when there were several villages scattered around the area. Cave paintings and remains of megalithic architecture have been found in the area around the city.

The first settlements that would give rise to the present-day city of Jaén were located on the slopes of the Santa Catalina hill in the Iberian period (800/700 BC).

With the Carthaginian conquest of the Guadalquivir valley, Jaén became a real fortress, led by the Carthaginian general Hannibal.

The city was taken from the Carthaginians by Scipio Africanus in 207 BC. Due to the fertility of its lands, the Romans gave it the name Auringe and Oringe. But it was during the 8th to 12th century when the urban development of the city was structured: palaces, mosques and baths were built. The city was fortified and, as it had excellent arable land, irrigation was channelled, with the Magdalena stream standing out in this action. 

After several sieges, Jaén was conquered by King Ferdinand III "The Saint" in 1246, for which reason the kings Henry II of Castile and Henry IV granted it several royal privileges.
It was during these years that the reconstruction of the cathedral began and a profound urban reform was undertaken, as well as a reinforcement of the Alcázar.

In the 16th century, Jaén was already one of the most important cities in Castile with an economy based on cereal crops, the leather tanning industry and the crafts sector. The construction of the Renaissance Cathedral was completed following the original layout by Andrés de Vandelvira.

The city played an important role in the Battle of Bailén.

During the Civil War, Jaén remained loyal to the Second Republic, which meant that it suffered bombing by the Condor Legion, which supported Franco's troops.

The Transition and the arrival of Democracy gave a new impulse to the development of the city. The different municipal, regional and national governments, as well as aid from European funds, contributed to strengthening the business and commercial fabric. In 1993 the university was created. This fact, together with the factors mentioned above, have contributed to the fact that Jaén is today an open, modern and enterprising city. 
 

Other Information

Jaén is a city that is home to a large number of legends that are deeply imbedded in the soul of its people. Perhaps the most famous of them all is that of the "Lagarto de la Malena" or "The Lizard of Jaén". The influence is such that it has become one of the symbols of the city, being present in its architecture, parades and concerts. It is based on the existence of a dragon (lizard) that terrorised the population and with ingenious tactics the inhabitants managed to get rid of it.