Castillo del Trovador Macias

Trovador Macias y Castillo, s/n. 23750, Arjonilla How to get

Arjonilla is located in Jaén’s western Campiña sector (which itself forms part of the Upper Guadalquivir region), in a relatively flat area that is lined by streams. Its castle, whose structure and layout date back to the Christian era, may have its origins in an old Islamic fortification that was probably built during the period of Almohad rule. The castle consists of a walled enclosure, where two towers remain standing: a circular corner tower and a quadrangular tower some 17 metres tall. The latter has three floors (each with a vaulted ceiling), is crowned by a crenellated terrace, and houses the entrance to the castle’s interior. Inside the enclosure the remains of several structures, including the base of what may have been a tower that served as the castle’s keep are conserved. We also find the foundations of various buildings, along with passageways that linked the different areas inside the castle. 
The Campiña sector in the Upper Guadalquivir region was characterised by a scattered rural population inhabiting Roman villages, and subsequent Muslim hamlets. Although there was a Visigothic settlement near modern-day Arjonilla, the town has its origins in one of the small rural Muslim settlements that developed between the 8th and 11th centuries. It would have been controlled by Madinat Aryuna (Arjona) and its first defensive structure – most likely a tower – dates back to the Almohad era. However, it was after the Castilian conquest, around 1244, that the castle we see today was built. Traditionally, this fortification is also considered the setting for the story of the imprisonment and death of Macías el Enamorado (“Macías the Enamoured”), a troubadour whose affairs inspired the works Porfiar hasta morir by Lope de Vega and El doncel de Don Enrique el Doliente by Mariano José de Larra. 
 

Arjonilla Castle consists of a quadrangular tower built of ashlars and standing some 17 metres tall. It is divided into three storeys, each of which boasts a vaulted ceiling, and is topped by a crenellated terrace with merlons. The set of steps connecting the second floor to the terrace (which adjoins the north-west wall) still remains. The tower was subject to a number of internal alterations, including the demolition of the original wall in order to construct a bent entrance with a pointed brick archway providing access to the castle’s interior. The stairs abutting the south-east wall and linking the second and third floors were also added around this time, necessitating the partial blocking of an entrance. 

The tower was adjoined to a walled enclosure that is broadly quadrangular in shape, although its north side was extended in order to connect to the tower, thereby creating a seven-sided polygonal layout. The corners of the enclosure were protected by a series of circular towers, of which only the one at the north-east end remains. The walls were equipped with crenellated walkways accessed via ramps.

Inside the enclosure, evidence has been found of what may have been a quadrangular tower with a base measuring 12 x 12 metres, with reinforcements and adjoining structures on its west side; however, only the foundations remain. These foundations may correspond to the castle’s keep, which according to some authors may have begun life as the old defensive tower in the Muslim hamlet, and was subsequently converted. Future studies will determine whether it was built prior to or after the castle that we see today.

The castle remained occupied after it lost its military function, and inside the enclosure there are traces of a number of new buildings. Initially, and probably beginning midway through the 16th century, it was used as a burial site, as investigators have discovered numerous brick ossuaries that had been dug into the ground. 

Above this necropolis stood two large rectangular buildings abutting the castle’s south-east wall. The other walls housed narrow entrances and were built from small stones mixed with earth. They appear to date from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Subsequently, a number of other structures were built and subdivided with partition walls of stone and mortar, or brick. The purpose of these structures is not known. Their walls were covered with white plaster and incorporated a series of openings, comprised of pillars holding up brick arches. Between these structures there would have been an open area or courtyard paved with river pebbles.

However, the most dramatic alteration was the demolition of the south wall in order to connect the castle to a stately home. This was accompanied by the installation of an industrial facility in the form of an olive mill, to produce olive oil. The installation of brick channels passing through various earlier buildings, perhaps related to the castle’s new industrial function, suggests that these had already fallen into disuse or had been demolished. 

More recently, the castle enclosure formed part of the grounds of an old school, and also housed a Civil Guard barracks.

The discovery of two Visigothic sarcophagi (one of which now forms part of the altar at the Parish Church of La Encarnación, while the other is on display at the Provincial Museum of Jaén) near Arjonilla, in the area commonly known as Las Herrerías or Cortijo del Mono, along with the discovery of a mid-7th century tombstone (whose whereabouts are currently unknown), indicates that this area was home to a Christian place of worship and a necropolis of some importance. The population of this Visigothic settlement near Arjonilla may have been impacted by the instability arising from the conflicts between local nobles and the recently arrived Muslims, and may have fled to higher ground or sought refuge in fortified settlements.

Arjonilla is not mentioned in the Islamic records, which, along with the lack of archaeological evidence, suggests that it was a rural location of little importance. The origins of Arjonilla may lie in a small hamlet that was occupied between the 8th and 11th centuries and was controlled by Aryuna (Arjona); after which, in view of the emergence of the various taifa kingdoms and the Almoravid and Almohad invasions (and the consequent need on the part of the population to defend itself against external attacks), the settlement may have been strengthened with the construction of an initial fortification. This may have taken the form of a defensive tower, or perhaps a simple wall encircling the hamlet.  

The area was conquered by the Castilians in 1244, which suggests that it then came temporarily under the control of the Council of Arjona. However, in 1282, Sancho IV granted Arjonilla to the Archdeacon of Úbeda, Gonzalo Pérez, thereby separating it administratively from Arjona; although in 1331 it was once again sold to Arjona. By 1397, it had become part of the possessions of Ruy López Dávalos. However, none of the documentary references to these events mention the existence of fortifications in Arjonilla. The first recorded mention of such was written during the reign of John II of Castile, and instructs the Order of Calatrava to occupy and rebuild the castle in Arjonilla. This corroborates the transaction that the Castilian king carried out in 1434 with the Order, when he exchanged the settlements of Maqueda, San Silvestre and Colmenar for Arjona, Arjonilla, La Figuera, Recena and three-quarters of Jimena, which were thus absorbed into the large feudal estate that the Order had established in the south-west of the former kingdom of Jaén. In 1553, Emperor Charles V granted the town the title of villa.

All of these details suggest that the castle was enlarged and redesigned between the late 13th and early 14th centuries, chiefly after Arjonilla passed into the hands of the Order of Calatrava.  

We know that there was a shrine dedicated to Saint Catherine inside the castle enclosure between the 16th and 17th centuries, which may have been linked to its use as a necropolis. However, we cannot discount the possibility that it was built by the Order of Calatrava as a place of worship inside the castle. Despite the loss of its defensive function, the castle remained in use and underwent major alterations, particularly after the 17th century when it became part of the stately home of the Marquess of La Merced.

LEGENDS

Macías the Enamoured. The story tells of the love affair that developed between Macías, the page of the Marquess of Villena, and Lady Elvira, one of the Marchioness’ ladies-in-waiting. They kept their relationship a secret, but one day, while Macías was away, the Marquess arranged for Lady Elvira to marry Hernán Pérez de Vadillo, the Marquess of Porcuna. Driven mad with despair, Macías began to wander around Lady Elvira’s home, singing songs about his loss. Her jealous husband complained to the Marquess, who ordered that Macías be imprisoned in the tower at the castle in Arjonilla.

However, Macías continued to sing, and his voice echoed through the town until it reached the ears of the Marquess of Porcuna. The latter was so enraged that he picked up a spear and hurled it through the window of Macías’ cell, where it fatally wounded the lovelorn troubadour. Macías was buried in the Church of Santa Catalina in Arjonilla, and on his tombstone were inscribed the words: “Here lies Macías the Enamoured”. It is said that even today, people sometimes see a female figure dressed in white, gliding along the castle walls until she reaches the cell where poor Macías died.